The last month was very stressful due to so many obligations.
Always in the hours though, when I am lost in my thoughts and my soul is yearning for peace, my mind takes me to where the sea calms my soul, where tastes and flavors take me back to the times gone by and to paved streets of the Medieval villages, and the distinctive scent of the sea.
Yes! That’s where I want to be when I want to lose myself, the place where my heart beats like crazy with joy… In my beloved Chios.
So Friday morning I took the day off and took the first morning flight to Chios, (no I didn’t want to miss any of the day) … I wanted to see the sun reflect its first rays over the Northern Aegean.
07.50am I had landed at Omiros airport in Chios and I had only one thing on my mind:
Morning Greek coffee and loukoumades with honey and cinnamon overlooking the harbor. There is something magical about gazing across the port as the it comes to life after dawn.
A few minutes after leaving the airport I was already seated at the table with a hot steaming Greek coffee served in the traditional briki and a plate of fresh loukoumades. The scent of the honey and cinnamon blending with the aroma of the freshly ground coffee was overwhelming.
The trip to Chios was already getting off to a great start!
Those of you who already know and love loukoumades already are aware that they are one of the characteristic dishes of Chios, and of course are accompanied wonderfully either with the classic Greek coffee or with the wonderfully refreshing Chios tangerine drink.
The three most characteristic cafes where I enjoy not only the wonderful loukoumades, but also bougatsa in all variations (savory and sweet) are the following:
1. Manaras in the center of the city. Its roots date back to 1868.
2. Axni & Kanella on the harbour. Serves Greek coffee in a copper pot grilled over embers.
3. Kanellos with a history of 100 years is located in the center of the city and as well as in Mesta. Whenever I find myself in my favorite Medieval village, a brief stop at Kanellos is a must.
Departing town northbound, and on my way home to rest I always make a quick stop at the Chios windmills in the Tabakika area. Stopping at the windmills is the confirmation to myself that I have finally reached the island – my home.
Tabakika used to be an industrial area. The four mills are built on a jetty and, like others in the area, served the needs of the neighboring tanneries. At the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, the mills were abandoned due to the crisis in the tanning industry. The windmills of Chios have two levels and a height of 10 meters and belong to the category of stone Mediterranean tower mills. The view at night is magical. They are an attraction for many photographers and are a special landmark of the town.
After a break at home and a reviving hot shower, I put on my super comfy elolathikes t-shirt, jeans and sneakers and head out for my favorite walk which will end up of course with wonderful Chian meal, as the walk will have opened up my appetite.
I make my way to the Kastro (castle) of Chios!
The Kastro is located north of the city center. It was built by the Byzantines in the 10th century and extended by the Genoese and Turks.
It’s impressive that the castle has 600 permanent residents today. The main gate of the castle, called Porta Maggiore, leads to the “Palace of Justinian”, which today serves as a museum, and to the building of the dark prison. Then the road leads to the central square of the castle, where the old Ottoman cemetery with the tomb of Pasha Kara Ali is located. There are two mosques in the castle, one of which was converted into the Church of St. George.
I start to tire but don’t stop, because I want to see the “cold well”,” a semi-subterranean medieval pool, the Turkish baths and the tower of Koulas, which is considered the center of a series of stone towers known as viglas.
The castle of Chios takes you through the centuries of its existence.
With every step you take, you enter different centuries and eras. Walking through the alleyways, I look at houses from another century and finally end up in the square. It’s time to enjoy the Chios cuisine in one of the castle’s traditional tavernas.
But if you don’t praise your own house, it’ll collapse and crush you; whichever tavern you choose, the food will be just as delicious. I’ve the menu in my hand and I want to order all the dishes! I start with grilled mastelo (local cheese) and cheese kefte, handmade macaroni with fresh tomato sauce and dry mizithra, stuffed eggplant fried with cheese, trahana and pastourma pitas, bekri meze and fried potatoes.
I stop here because I am saving the best till the end.
After eating and drinking like there is no tomorrow I ended the day with the must stop for ice cream: Kronos!
The tastiest mastic ice cream that I have tried in Greece. Fresh Ice cream without any preservatives and the receipes remain the same since 1929 – passed down secretly from generation to generation.
My first day in Chios ends here. Tired but full of sea air in my lungs, Chian flavors on my palate and images of my favorite island.
